Slept until almost 7am which felt great. Had a leisurely morning and had breakfast by the river. Thought we would walk around town in the morning while it was still relatively cool.
It is true that you can get anything you want made in Hoi An. As soon as we crossed the bridge, we ran into a jewelry store that hand makes all their jewelry. I have been searching for some gold earrings and it turns out that Vietnam is pretty much a silver kind of country. But I wasn't giving up. We walked into the store and they were just great - pushy - told us we could make anything we wanted and be ready by the afternoon. Bingo!
Geoff decided it was time to get a new suitcase and Vietnam is as good a place as any. He was looking for a medium size duffle with wheels. We looked a bit last night before dinner. Found one that was good. The woman wanted $35 - told her we would be back today. Going in and out of the stalls along the streets, we came upon that same bag at a different vendor. This time it was "First customer discount" and we got the same bag for $25. Can't go wrong there. We will leave the old suitcase in Hoi An. Did some more shopping around (now that we have a bigger boat!).
Picked up some essentials and headed back to the pool. Passed our laundry hanging out on the way back. We had talked about talking a walk along the river but it was way too hot to do much of anything but dip in and out of the water. Hung around the pool and chatted with a young gal from Toronto till it got hungry. Geoff and I offered to walk into town to pick up lunch if she would hold our spots by the pool. We walked down to get some banh mi sandwiches - which were supposed to be outrageous. The place we got them, was featured on some kind of Travel Channel. The place is tiny and it was mobbed. Finally made it back to the pool. Sandwiches were good - we like the African Swarma better however.
The group got back from biking and starting wandering into the pool area. The major consensus was that the ride was not that good and the road was definitely not that good. Really glad we took a day off to chill and get some stuff done. We packed it in at 3:30 and Geoff went to get the wash. We gave them a huge bag of some pretty stinky stuff and it came back washed, dried, and folded for around $5. Waited till 4 and went across the bridge again to pick up the earrings. Perfect!
On the way to the room, I passed the beauty salon and thought it was a time for a hair trim. We have been away about a month now and my hair is getting huge. Plus it is very hot. It is pretty much a hack job (sorry, Kristy) but it'll grow and for right now it should be a whole lot cooler on my head.
We are on our own tonight so not sure where we will wind up. Well, we wound up eating our way through the middle of town trying out some of the local street food. First there was the deep fried crab - the whole crab. Yummy but crunchy. Then we split a fried banana pancake - chewy and sweet. Next, Geoff got a bbq corn - tasted more like popcornwith buttery chili. Finally, we each got a small sweet potato with coconut patty - sweet and yummy. When we had our fill of appetizers, we meandering down to the river and tried to find a food vendor there. Unfortunately, there isn't much without meat when it comes to street food. We headed back to the strip and picked a place that had actual sandwiches. Geoff got a home made veggie burger - which was delicious, and I got a veggie panini - also very good. Had our fill and tried to find this NZ ice cream the kids at the pool were talking about but never succeeded. Grew tired and walked back over the bridge to the hotel.
Hoi An is another busy place with scooters blowing by you. There is a section of town that is strictly for bikes and pedestrians and that is just always crowded with tourists. Our hotel directly over the bridge but fortunately it is one of the quietest places we have stayed at. Usually there has been either an amusement park or karaoke or some other kind of noise..
Tomorrow the plan is for 100km up and over another mountain pass with lunch and swimming at a beach. I'll try but I doubt I'll make it up. In any event, I'll have fun going down. Good night.
Next time... The Road to Hue
Not as many km today - good thing too because we didn't get a lot of sleep last night. We saddled up at the hotel and took off for the My Lai Massacre Memorial about 15km. We viewed a half hour documentary on the March 16, 1968 massacre. After took a tour of the grounds and the museum.
In one of the most horrific incidents of violence against civilians during the Vietnam War, a company of American soldiers brutally killed the majority of the population of the South Vietnamese hamlet of My Lai in March 1968. Though exact numbers remain unconfirmed, it is believed that as many as 500 people including women, children and the elderly were killed in the My Lai Massacre.. Higher-ranking U.S. Army officers managed to cover up the events of that day for a year before revelations by a soldier who had heard of the massacre sparked a wave of international outrage and led to a special investigation into the matter. In 1970, a U.S. Army board charged 14 officers of crimes related to the events at My Lai; only one was convicted. The brutality of the My Lai killings and the extent of the cover-up exacerbated growing antiwar sentiment on the home front in the United States and further divided the nation over the continuing American presence in Vietnam.
From the museum we were back on the road for another 18km for a rest stop. Pretty much the same scenery - rice fields, fishing boats, etc. Not much exciting happened until Geoff almost had a collision with a car. I was up ahead, cycling with Sue through the traffic and the cows in the road when we heard a very loud crashing sound. I asked if that was a biker. Yup - then someone said it was Geoff. Well, I just about lost it! I didn't know what to think it looked like the bike was under the car. Then he got up and brushed himself off. All was fine - no crash. The car stopped short and that was the sound we heard. Geoff was trying to get a shot of the cows going through the traffic when he lost his balance. The driver got out of the car and they both smiled and shook hands. Meanwhile, I was still trying to put my heart back in my chest.
We biked another 5 miles to the rest stop and he was able to check his wounds. Some scraps on his legs and his elbow is pretty banged up. The bike was fine - just a little seat adjustment. Guess he might be sore for a bit. Biked the last 16km of the day to the bus to go to lunch.
Lunch was a hotpot with veggies and fish (for us) with fresh eggs dropped in. While we were eating the pig truck across the street stopped and the driver started hosing down the pigs. As we have been traveling, we keep seeing all these running hoses on the side of the road. One day I asked what they were for, and Binh said to hose down either the trucks and/or animals so they don't over heat. Those pigs were stuffed in there pretty good.
It was a 2 hour bus ride to Hoi An. The hotel is lovely and situated on an island just over the bridge from the main city. This is a very touristy place. Lots of shopping for tailored clothes and handmade shoes. We are here for two nights, so first order of business was laundry. We opted for the smiling man across the street rather than DIY. Not sure we'll have another chance before Hanoi.
Biking tomorrow is 50km - but it is optional. I have chosen to take a day off and see some of the town and give my tush a rest. Geoff is staying as well and hopes he'll heal some. Several others are taking the day off also. The day after is the 100km with a mountain pass that goes up for 6km. Still thinking about that one.
Walked through the old town and part of the new on the way to dinner. Lots of lights, lots of shops, and lots and lots of tourists. We may change our mind about biking tomorrow - there is one probably though, most of our clothes are at the laundry. Just have to see what is left and make a decision in the morning. Dinner was tasty with the usual courses only with a slight variation. A short walk back through the lights to our hotel.
Next time...Exploring Hoi An
Had a good breakfast this morning. It was a short bus ride to our starting place. Before I begin today's journey, here are a few facts about Quy Nhon:
In Vietnam, there is one place that deserves to be visited by more people: Quy Nhon. Even though it is not considered as a tourist destination, this medium-sized town is bordered by stunning beaches and the countryside that surrounds it is also breathtaking.Quy Nhon is the capital of Binh Dinh Province and was acknowledged as a city as early as 1898. However, the town has been in existence since the 11th century, in the time of the Kingdom of Champa. In the 15th century, it also served as the ruling centre of Emperor Le Thanh Ton. Quy Nhon was also relevant during the Vietnam War. Not only was it a site for intense battle, but it also was an important US military and naval base.At present, Quy Nhon is a developing port city with a population of more than 260,000 people with plans to build infrastructure that would encourage more tourists to visit. Naturally, fishing is the main industry in Quy Nhon, making it a great source of exceptional seafood. This destination is highly recommended for all seafood lovers.
Unfortunately, we didn't have time to really get to see much of it, but it did appear extremely clean. Binh also mentioned that it is a city of Martial Arts. They were up at sunrise this morning exercising on the beach.
OK, on to today's activities. Total of 70km - 16k till first break then another 20km with 3 major
climbs before 2nd break and another 14km to lunch. After lunch it was an easy 20km to the bus. The riding today was the best yet. My tush felt somewhat better - Dave was kind enough to give me some zinc for my wounds. The scenery was beautiful and we had a nice breeze all day. The morning was a tail wind and the
afternoon a head wind. I really didn't care what kind of wind it was as long as there was a breeze. I climbed the 3 passes with grades around 9% approaching the top. Still not sure if I'll make it up the big mountain climb in a few days. We are about half- way through our tour and we are definitely getting stronger.
The scenery was a good change of pace from yesterday's brown
dusty village roads . Lots of greenery and seaside views riding along the coast. Passed workers in the salt flats. They started goofing around when they saw Geoff taking their picture. He also upset a class of school kids who rushed to say hi while their teacher was trying to keep them in their seats. Riding past cows, goats, water buffalo, and who knows what else has become common. We have become fearless riders. Trucks, buses, cars, scooters, bikes, animals, all of them think they have the right of way. You just have to GO! I can't believe I ever complained about riding in traffic back home. Bike lanes - what are they?????
We had a 3 hour bus ride into our new location, Quang Ngai City. Route 1 is under heavy construction and some bumps actually had us off our seats. The bus made one stop at a lovely small beach resort so we could use the facilities and have a coffee or whatever. Arrived at the hotel around 4pm and then the fun began. If yesterday was the best hotel, this has to be the worst so far. The room we were in was very small and the AC wouldn't work. Again, communication is the key and we didn't have it. After several attempts of explaining our problem, we finally wound up with a suite! Although, still dated, the AC works and there is plenty of room. Think they just wanted to get rid of us.
Dinner tonight was at a local restaurant for some home-style Vietnamese cooking. We were served a Vietnamese delicacy called goby. A tiny little fish that they brine and somehow cook up. They are caught in this area - so this was a real treat.
Tomorrow we go to Hoi An. A relatively short bike ride of 45km starting from the hotel, with a trip to the Massacre Museum in My Lai. Sweet dreams
Next time.... Hoi An
No coastal ride today. We went inland and biked through several small villages. But let's start with this morning's chaos. Went up to the 17th floor restaurant and there was our group patiently waiting at their tables. Usually breakfast is a buffet. We all like to get as much rest as possible, so we just grab what we want, eat, and run to get to the bus on time. Apparently, this hotel did not get the message - no buffet. So whether we wanted one or not, we were going to have a leisure breakfast - very leisure. Communication was a challenge. Just trying to get a cup of coffee was challenging. Eventually we all ate, whether it was what we ordered or not. It did provide a good laugh for first thing in the morning.
Surprisingly, the bus left on time for our 30 minute ride to meet up with our bikes. It was a 70km
day - give or take. With 2 stops before lunch and then the last 20km before getting back on the bus to get to the new hotel. We traveled through villages, rice paddies, and plenty of construction - this whole country seems to be under construction. This also felt like the hottest day yet. At times, it felt like biking in a steam bath. I wasn't all that comfortable because despite all the Hoo-Ha cream I put on, I still managed to get chaffed. I think it happened after swimming yesterday - not ever getting really dry. Anyway, my butt was burning! I bailed out at the first stop and took the bus to lunch. I added some more cream and was back on the bike for the after lunch ride. Not sure if that was a good idea or not. I did 52km and Geoff must have done 70km.
We brought the bath products (shampoo, toothpaste, soap, etc) from the hotel to hand out to the kids as we went through the villages. Geoff also had the salted licorice that Alena gave him way back in LA. He handed that out - but we left before they could taste it!
We arrived at the Seagull Hotel in Quy Nhon, which is on the coast, at around 2ish. The hotel is directly on the beach and the beach is pristine. First thing after check-in is wash clothes - turn our lovely room into a ghetto with clothes hanging everywhere to dry. Then we head for the water. The waves are a bit rougher than where we were yesterday. We hung out for a while, took a stroll down the beach and are now resting comfortably in our spacious room. It is still noisy out there, but we are getting used to it. Vietnam is not a quiet place.
Dinner is at the hotel and we are meeting later than usual tonight. Since I have the time, I'll briefly introduce you to our group. Olivia, from London, is way younger than any of us and by far the best biker, always in the lead, which is to be expected. Next up would be Hugh from NZ. Young in spirit, he is always at the head right up there with Olivia. Then come the four Canadians - Leslie. Freeman, Sonya, & Joe. They travel in a pack and have their biking skills down pat. They are also near the front. Sue, Hugh's sister from NZ is steady as she goes, and is usually riding by herself, snapping pictures along the way. Winding up in the back bringing up the rear is a toss up between yours truly, Dave from Montreal and Fionna, Hugh's wife. Geoff, God bless him, rides with me wherever I am in the group. When I do opt for the bus and he is on his own, he can be found not too far from Hugh. So far everyone gets along just fine which is really nice.
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| picture of the day |
Just back from a very elegant dinner. I think this was six courses, but I lost count after four. Geoff and I went up to the Smile Bar on the 12th floor to see what was there. A panorama of the city - tried taking some pix but nothing worth putting up. Tomorrow is another 70km day. The good news is that the biking will be on the coast - more hilly than today. The bad news is that we have a 3 hour bus drive from the end of cycling to the hotel. Hope we can nap.
Next time... Coastin' the Coast - for real
Another 85 km down and I did every hill and dale! We took off on the bikes pretty soon after breakfast. Riding out of town was a challenge in the morning traffic but we all managed to survive.
Once out of town it was back roads and rolling hills. We passed through a very lively fishing village. Geoff was able to get some really good shots.
As we were leaving the village, I heard the thump, thump, yup - flat tire - and, of course, it was the rear. Geoff and I stopped on
a bridge and watched three guys fishing in the river. We were waiting for Binh (our guide) and Dave. It seemed like quite a while. We tried to hail someone down to use their cell phone to call, but everyone just thought we were saying hi. So they would wave and say hello. As you pass through all these villages, everyone comes out and says hello. They want to know where you are from. It's a real hoot. Finally, the boys showed up. Apparently, Dave took a wrong turn and ended up at a market. Binh had to go find him.
Now it was time to change the tire. That took a while. We were really behind now and the plan was to go swimming at the beach restaurant. I really didn't want to miss that - especially having bought the damn towels! So we plodded on only to run into school letting out. The other day we were behind a funeral procession and now the school bell rang. There must have been 100's of kids on bikes just pouring out - and we were right in the middle of them. Finally got free of the kids and we were back up to speed - just had to watch out for cows in the road. Got to the restaurant and immediately headed to change into our suits and hit the beach. This beach was absolutely pristine. The water was perfect, the sand was fine with no pebbles or rocks, and the waves were just right for playing. What a treat after 45km. Took and shower and went in for lunch.
The last 40 km were up and down through villages, rice paddies, pagodas, and wonderful scenery. We got into Tuy Hoa at around 4pm. Another huge hotel with in the middle of nowhere with no people in it. We went up to our room, changed and hit the pool. Nice and refreshing.
Tuy Hoa is formulated mainly from alluvial of the downstream of Đà Rằng River. There are two mountains in the center of the city: Chóp Chài Mountain and Nhạn Mountain.Đà Rằng River and Nhan Mountain create a poetic landscape. There is a Champa Temple on the top of Nhạn Mountain. Standing at this place, visitors easily enjoy a full view of Tuy Hoa city. Tuy Hoà has a fine white sand beach, which is a popular tourist destination.
Dinner was at a restaurant around back of the hotel. Ate on the outside deck. Didn't even count the courses tonight. After dinner, Geoff, Olivia, Sue, and I went up to the hotel restaurant on the 17th floor to see the view. Not too much to see at night. We'll have breakfast there in the morning. Speaking of morning - we leave here at 7:30 and take the bus to our starting point for another 70 some odd km. We were told the terrain will be easier - we'll see.
Next time....Coastin' the coast
First day in a long time that we have seen a cloudy morning. Looked like rain and we weren't sure boating was going to happen or not. We took a walk down to the beach . Had our traditional Jerry B, moment and then went inside for breakfast. Loaded onto the bus by 9 and went off to see Po Naga Temple.
Po Nagar is a Cham temple tower founded sometime before 781 and located in the medieval principality of Kauthara, near modern Nha Trang in Vietnam. It is dedicated to Yan Po Nagar, the goddess of the country, who came to be identified with the Hindu goddessesBhagavati and Mahishasuramardini, and who in Vietnamese is called Thiên Y Thánh Mâu.
We did the tourist thing for a while and we were back on the bus headed for the harbor.Rented some snorkeling gear and we were on our way. Looked like the rain was just a minor thought and the sun was out in full blast by the time we hit the water. Can't say that it was spectacular but it sure was fun and very refreshing to get out of the heat. We were back to the hotel by 1. Free day to do what we want. We meet up tomorrow for more biking and another destination.
Geoff and I hit the streets looking for lunch. Nha Trang is heavily influenced with Russians. This is a big vacation spot for them. So everything here is in Russian. It is a big odd. Not much English spoken at all. We settled on Mexican style street food just for a change of pace. It was getting much too hot to be wondering the crowded streets, so we took the beach walk back and hit the pool at the hotel.
There will be more swimming tomorrow and we needed to get our own towels. Back on the streets. We walked down the beach pass the exercise equipment and the kite flying to the Night Market. Scored some towels as well as a few gifts to take back home. Found a place for dinner that was Vietnamese but with a Russian flair. Just weird.
On the way back, we went into an arts and crafts gallery. The embroidery was stunning. When we had enough, we headed for the hotel. Thought about a massage but we were both too tired for even that. Maybe the next free day. Nighty, night.
Next time... Back in the saddle again
OMG What a day! Didn't get much sleep last night. The hotel room was stuffy and very small. The hotel is the oldest in the city and it used to be the palace. It appears nothing too much has been done to these rooms since then.
Up and out and on the bus by 7:30. Next destination - Nha Trang. Very big tourist spot on the coast. But first there was this little thing called a mountain pass in the way. Today was our 100km ride. I really tried but I only managed to do 80km. The 20 I skipped were climbing to the top of the pass. I just couldn't breathe - I think it was an altitude problem. So I hopped on the bus and was soon joined by Fiona who also cried Uncle on the last stretch. Everyone else made it up to the top. We were told that the weather was extraordinary - usually it is cold and foggy at the top. It was definitely cool up there but the sky was as blue as could be.
Fiona and I got back on the bikes for the 30km descent down the mountain and another 40km or
so to meet the bus to take us into Nha Trang. The ride down was phenomenal! Very little traffic and a whole lot of scenery. At the bottom, we stopped for lunch at another river restaurant. We were back on the bikes - the hills kept on coming but not as high. I was able to breathe and all was good. It was a bit hairy riding through the villages but we are getting used to the chaos.
Met the bus and arrived at the hotel by 4pm. This place is right across the street from the beach. We have a suite with a beautiful view of the ocean below. The traffic here is just as crazy and a bit more dangerous. Since it is not as congested as Saigon, they go faster and hence, get into more crashes. We have seen 2 since we have been here and never saw one all the time we were in Saigon.
We hurried and washed off the road dirt to get down to the pool. It was late in the afternoon and the wind was blowing pretty hard. Took a quick swim and headed back to the room. Did some hand wash and relaxed before dinner. Zang ordered some cycle rickshaws to take us all the dinner. What a hoot going through town in one of these. This is another jumping town. Lots of bright lights, music, and plenty of people. Dinner was at a Vietnamese BBQ. Absolutely fabulous. You cook at the table and the smoke flies!
It was back by rickshaw. Tomorrow there is no biking and talk of a boat ride with snorkeling. We'll see what the weather brings. We are back in the tropics again. Meanwhile, a good night's sleep would really feel good about now.
Next time... A Day in Nha Trang
