Saturday, March 21, 2015

Temples, Temples, Temples

A slow start this morning. The sun was shining but the air was brisk. Hung around the house and had a leisurely breakfast - granola!!! Hadn't had granola since we left LA what a treat. Finally made it out of the house by around 10:30 or so. Jonni (our host) was kind enough to drive us around the town and gave us a map. Today we explored the Hieisan-Sakamoto area.

He dropped us off at the cable car which takes you to the top of Mt. Hiei. A short hike up through the cedar forest brings you to the World Cultural Heritage Site of Enryakuji 
Located in the mountain, miles away to the northeast from Kyoto city, Enryakuji is a quiet Buddhist temple. You take the cable car to go up the mountain and feel the temperature lower by a few degrees. It’s cool in summer and snowy in winter. It is one of the largest and most important temples in Kyoto.
Priest Saicho built the temple in eighth century as the center of Tendai sect of Buddhism. He studied Buddhism in China and played a major role in the development of Japanese Buddhism. His follower monks founded other sects to which most Japanese people belong today.
As his sect became powerful, warlord Oda Nobunaga thought they oppose his administration, then attacked the temple in 1571. So the present buildings are not the original but the reconstruction completed in the middle of 17th century.

Mount Hiei had long been accessed by only monks on foot, but thanks to the modern transportation, tourists today can reach the summit (848m) by car, cable car or ropeway. In winter, however, some of them are closed or operated by the off-season schedule. During winter, the cable car is the most frequent and useful.
Enryakuji Temple consists of three areas, To-do, Sai-to, and Yokawa. And each has two or three must-see buildings.
Came down from the mountain and went to find the gardens that Jonni recommended. Stopped at a restaurant across the street for some coffee. They had their own gardens there and it was a beautiful peaceful place to sit and enjoy a break. It was wonderful being out of the city and away from all the maddening tourists. Sakamoto is a small town with shrines, monasteries, and many little hidden treasures around every corner. We are fortunate for the opportunity to be able to spend whatever time we can here.

Finished our coffee and went across the street to the Kyu Chikurin-in Gardens. We had a lovely tour of both the tea houses and the gardens. Stayed there for quite some time and then pressed on to see what else Sakamoto had to offer. It is a strange feeling seeing so much of the ancient culture mixed in with the modern day world. 

Decided on an early dinner and since choices were limited, we went to Honke Tsuruki. A famed restaurant making soba (buckwheat) noodles for 300 years. Ordered 2 bowls of soba and broth along with some veggie tempura. We were tired and it was getting cold so we called up Jonni and he came to pick us up. It is great that they still actually have public telephones in this country and it is probably the cheapest thing there is - 10yen for a phone call.

Back at the house, relaxed with a glass of wine and planned out tomorrow's adventure. Taking the train back into Kyoto to see - yup- more temples. These are some of the big guns so there will probably be lots of tourists. Oh well, you gotta do it - I guess. 

Next time...Back to Kyoto

1 comment:

  1. One thing about the temples, they seem to have the most exquisite & serene gardens surrounding them. Hope the big boys in Kyoto have the same.

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